Paris
Fashion
Week Two
by two, Louis Vuitton's models glided down a row of elevators onto a
giant checked runway, as the luxury house headlined the last day of
Paris Fashion Week with a look fed by conceptual art. Tending towards
the 'counter-decorative', last week's Paris fashion brands clearly set
themselves apart by showing a strong preference for a more-than-usual
minimal style – silhouettes were long, lean and rather 'closed', as
outfits had the flat-looking appearance of solid structures.
Curious designers
thirsty for new inspirations ventured across the globe, to bring new
ideas and exotic cultures to the runways. Bare feet, flip flops, sand,
sun and tropical heat: designers brought a generous dose of summer to
the catwalks, matching the glorious sunshine that warmed up day the six
days of the fashion week. Lebanon's Kayrouz dubbed his latest
ready-to-wear line simply Summertime, sending out models barefoot down a
sandy runway, to the sound of crashing waves. Sheltering from the sun
under wide-brimmed hats, an elegant gold band circling the head, models
looked cool and comfortable in fluid tunic dresses of black or taupe
silk, some slit discreetly on the spine to let in the breeze.
For the hottest days,
designers came up with light chiffon dresses cut on the knee in front
and curving down to a simple, fluttering train at the back. And for
moderate temperatures, silk tank tops into roomy cotton pants with a
drawstring waist, either sand-coloured bermuda short versions, or long
pants in luminous mustard yellow were seen on the ramp.
India, home to over a
billion people and one of the most colourful cultures in the world – is a
limitless creative touchstone for designers. It was surprising to see
the Mumbai-born Manish Arora to not delve into India's rich fashion
encyclopedia. Arora presented a spicy and bohemian homage to his
homeland for spring-summer 2013, with a vibrant infusion of traditional
Indian dress and lavish regal jewellery.
US design duo Carol Lim
and Humberto Leon set the scene with a giant video of jungle imagery,
superimposed with prints inspired by it. As for their men's line
unveiled in the summer, the pair drew inspiration from a recent trip to
the rainforests of southeast Asia, bringing back a look they billed as
"urban safari". With watertight wading boots and safari jackets, a
handful of looks were cut to protect from a tropical shower. But most
looked like what you would slip into for a stroll once the rain had
stopped beating down.
Leather bolero jackets
were matched with rustic linen pants for a summery daytime look, while
for evening, slender silhouettes with twisted drapes of silk, like a
pale lilac stole worn above black pants were a common feature at the
fashion week.
Virginal chic was the
watchword later as Givenchy unveiled a summer collection of monastic
simplicity, demurely chic and deeply luxurious. With a scent of myrrh in
the air, the design house set up a distinctly church-like scene. Under
the watch of hip hop's Kanye West, among other celebrities present,
models stepped out in ballerina chignons, almost nunnish in tops or
dresses of layered organza.
Black and white also
dominated the show, with flashes of baby blue or dove grey, and
monochrome dresses were accentuated with vertical flounces on one
shoulder. Balloon sleeves were opened up and fastened to the back with
gold metal.
It might be the last
fashion week of the season, but Paris always ends things with an
explosion of new looks – biker jackets, flower appliqués, full skirts,
pleats, and kaftans were some of the highlights of the show.
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